Pacific Crest Trail Section D: Day 3

Day 3 Camp North of Vincent Gap to Cajon Pass - 33-miles

View of Baden-Powell from PCT Marker

I left my tent in the middle of the night.  Wind gusts slapped the fabric of my Gossamer Gear One tent throughout the night, so I moved to one of the benches, and slept soundly until rain drops fell on my nose and cheek.  I jumped out of my sleeping bag immediately, and started moving my gear under a nearby tree. The rain died after I moved my last items under the tree. I slammed my breakfast, packed up, and descended toward Highway 2 at Vincent Gap.

From Vincent Gap, the trail ascended 800-feet to Blue Ridge, where the trail leveled out, providing occasional sweeping views east toward the Mojave Desert. Patches of snow occasionally covered the trail, but posed little difficulty for hiking.

At Grassy Hollow Visitor's Center, I refilled my water bottles, and took a moment to capture a picture of me standing next to a PCT sign with posted mileages to Mexico and Canada.  I remember this sign from my 2003 hike, and it seems like I see this picture every year in photo presentations at the Kickoff.

Climbing out of Grassy Hollow, my sights were set to the west, where I could see Mt. Baldy, and beyond it, a band of rain moving toward me.  Great... rain... Before I left on this trip, I heard that a storm was moving in, but I did not know that it was moving in this early! Rain began to spit on me, and then turned into a steady shower. I donned my rain jacket.  I kept hiking to the next intersection with Highway 2, where I took cover under an informational kiosk. Was this the monumental storm I heard about moving in early?  Should I hitch to Wrightwood, and get off the trail early?  If I do that, when am I ever going to get back to this point to hike from here to Cajon Pass? I donned my rain jacket, and decided to push on.

"Famous Sign"

After crossing Highway 2, I ascended toward Mountain High West ski resort.  The steady rain that had fallen earlier stopped completely, and skies started to clear up. I pulled the rain jacket off during a surprisingly 'brutal' climb (by PCT standards) up what appeared to be an old jeep road, which may be a remnant of development from the ski resort.

I came to a large, open, fenced-in, plastic-lined, man made water tank.  By wilderness standards, this is thing was out of place, but by skiing standards, it is essential for making snow at the resort. Regardless, it is ugly.

I stopped for a short break, and absorbed the scenery to the west. Again, I looked back at Baden-Powell, and it's daunting, dramatic, west-facing slope. The weather was now downright sunny and warm. What a perfect moment!

A view of Mount Baldy from Blue Ridge

The trail followed the ridge, darting in and out of forest, crossing and paralleling forest service roads, and passing campgrounds, namely Guffy Campground. Guffy is significant place, since it has the first, reliable water source for northbound PCT thru-hikers 22.5-miles after Cajon Pass.  Likewise, this was a critical water stop for me, and I missed it. Yep, I blew right through the campground, because I just was not paying attention. Stupid me.  I had about a liter and a half of water when I passed through, and after I realized my mistake, I figured on rationing the rest of the way to Cajon Pass.

I passed the Acorn Trail (a steep descent that leads to the hiker-friendly town of Wrightwood), and after another mile, the Baldy Trail.  If I were not pressed for time on this hike, I would have taken the 4-mile side route to the top of Mt. Baldy, a 10,063-foot peak in the middle of the Sheep Wilderness - that trip will come another day.  From this point (8,328-feet), the PCT begins a very long, gradual descent all the way down to Cajon Pass (2,995-feet). Passing through ponderosa pine forests, the PCT offers occasional, yet exceptional views of Mt. Baldy to the southwest, the San Andreas Fault and Cajon Pass to the east, and Mount San Gorgonio and Mount San Jacinto to the South.

A View of the San Andreas Fault

I followed the trail along Blue Ridge down to the Upper Lytle Creek Divide, a fast, yet sun-exposed hike through the south end of the San Gabriel Mountains. Clear views of the San Andreas Fault Zone, which Lone Pine Canyon Road follows, caught my interest and fueled my geological imagination. What did this area look like thousands of years ago? What's the greatest shift along this fault line? What would happen on the trail here if a large quake happened right here, right now? Would I be dodging boulders? At least I had these thoughts to distract me from thinking about how parched I was, since I had a half of liter of water left for another 11-miles of trail, and the sun continued to beat down on me.

I met a few thru-hikers going the opposite direction. They asked about the climb up this dry stretch of trail, wondering how much further it was to Guffy Campground.  I could only guesstimate the mileage, and offer some hope by telling them that the climb is steady, but not steep. What a tough stretch for a northbounder! I asked about Bike Spring just below, and was told, "Don't bother."

Looking North at Swarthout Canyon 

Getting closer to Swarthout Canyon Road, the trail twists, meanders, and turns, which seems to add unnecessary mileage, but this terrain, covered with thick chaparral and cut by countless dry gullies, dictates a winding path.  At the road, I looked north through the San Andreas Fault Zone, and was amazed by the two ridges (Upper Lytle Creek Divide and Circle Mountain Ridge) which lined this alluvial channel in the desert. The sun was starting to set by this time - the scenery looked heavenly.

The trail hugged the west side of Ralston Peak, which I had been observing from Upper Lytle Creek Divide for the last 3-hours. I stopped for another break, and drank the last few swallows of my water, and ate some dehydrated mangos. For the fist time, I noticed a tick embedded in my leg, and as much as I hate ticks being attached to me, I thought it was better to deal with it later. I had more hiking to do, the sun was getting lower, and high winds and clouds began to move into the San Gabriels - a storm was coming.

I entered the oddly, but beautifully-shaped, Mormon Rocks section of this hike, where the trail undulates over nubs, along short ridges, and down into chasms. Small caves, and wind-shaped depressions in the rock tempted me to stop, explore and play, but I was too focused on getting water at Cajon Pass that I blew these features off.

The Pacific Crest Trail at Mormon Rocks

Civilization grew closer, as I crossed railroad tracks, walked past dilapidated homes, and the hum of Interstate 15 became louder.  I crossed a creek, but chose to continue on, knowing that the water at McDonald's needed no treatment. I crossed under I-15, and arrived at the PCT trailhead at Cajon Pass. I was finished with this long day (32-miles), and celebrated with a burger, fries, and cold, delicious water!

Condor's PCT Adventure in 3-Minutes

One of the videos featured at Annual Day Zero Pacific Crest Trail Kickoff's Video Shorts Festival was "Condor's PCT Adventure in 3-Minutes."  I've seen SunWalker's facial transformation video, which is awesome, but Condor's video definitely takes the cake. He won the "Best Spirit of the PCT" category for this video, so check it out:



Condor (Kolby Kirk) also runs a website called thehikeguy.com, which is loaded with information about his hikes, and includes hiker outings out of the Bend, Oregon area.  Condor also has a few clips from his journals, which are amazing pieces of art work. Seriously, the time, detail, and effort he puts into his colorful, textured journals tell a multifaceted story, which cannot be captured online. I got to travel back to Oregon with him, and he showed me his journal for his upcoming Sierra Trek Hike.  I was utterly amazed at what he had already written, painted, and "stickered"into his journal before the big hike. Very cool.

Hiking 26

I just saw this website called Hiking 26, and I had to blog about it. I have not done much research on this hiker named Ron Ulrich, but what I know is this: he will hike the Pacific Crest Trail (2600-miles) in 26 weeks, and will wear 26 wedding dresses for the duration of his hike. Yep, that's about one wedding dress per week.

I love this project! Here's why: his endeavor takes all the pretension out the current über hiker-than-thou thing going on in the long distance hiking community. We have so many people attempting speed records every year, using the trail as a platform to raise money for a cause, or showing off the latest ultralight contraptions or techniques. Ron Ulrich's Hiking 26 project is a fresh take on hiking the trail. It is a bit art, a bit challenge, and a slap in the face to everyone that takes their long distance adventure way too seriously. Is this project shameless self promotion? Yes it is. So what? So are all the other hikes that are documented on Trail Journals or Postholer. And people announcing their speed record attempts? It's huge self promotion.

I say, "Go Ron! Go! Have a great hike, and may all your wedding dresses whisk you gently to Canada!

Picture From Sky Camp

Back in July of 2010, my hard drive crashed on my computer, and I lost a lot of information.  What an idiot I was for never backing up information (lesson learned!).  I had some pictures on an external hard drive that survived, and they are my only photos remaining from the 2007-2010 era of my life.

I dug out a few pictures of a sunset and sunrise at Sky Camp at Point Reyes National Seashore in California.  I love the place, and I have hiked and backpacked there whenever the opportunity arises.  Anyway, I thought I'd share some pictures from a trip in 2007.   It was the first time I had ever camped at Sky Camp, and I was floored by the views.  Enjoy the pics!

Sunset and Waxing Moon with View Out to Pacific Ocean

Sunrise on Dead Tree with Pacific in Background

Sil-Tarp Sunrise at Sky Camp

Uncovering the Story of a Helicopter Rescue

Back on May 11th, the Riverside Mountain Rescue Unit airlifted a Pacific Crest Trail hiker near Snow Creek in southern California. The following video shows the rescue:

After watching the video, I could not figure what was wrong with the hiker. She was not unconscious, nor did she have broken leg. She looked fine! I did a little research, and I found a detailed report for the rescue, but the hiker's ailment was never listed. I was puzzled, and wondered if this rescue was actually necessary.

Then I found another video on YouTube that was related to this helicopter rescue. In fact, I recognized the hiker (Annie) telling the story using finger puppets, so I had to check it out:

Well, I guess that answers my question about why the hiker was rescued. I guess that's a legitimate reason, eh?

Props to the Riverside Mountain Rescue Unit for doing what they do. Keep up the good work!

California Desert Panorama

I took this shot after hiking south of Mission Creek in section C of the Pacific Crest Trail.  I love the desert areas of southern California, and was enamored by the great views of San Gorgonio Peak and Mt. San Jacinto.  Have a great weekend out there everyone, and take pictures!

Desert Panorama - Click Image for Larger View

Big Bear Lake for Easter Sunday

I pulled off the trail today to go to worship on Easter Sunday.  I have extra time on my hands, so I thought the opportunity could not be passed.

Spring continues to erupt throughout southern California, and a friend of mine reminded me of the significance of this time through the words of Martin Luther who said: "Our Lord has written the promise of resurrection, not in books alone, but in every leaf of spring time."  Of course the resurrection of Christ is central in the promise, but it is the 'ordinary' things in life that remind me of that great gift.  Yes, even the small, but colorful phlox ring out resurrection, even in a seemingly barren, desert landscape.

I am staying at the Big Bear Hostel here in Big Bear Lake, California.  I have the whole place to myself!  A hiker named Ari was here earlier today, but he left the trail to go to Los Angeles, and eventually to the Grand Canyon.  He said he could not handle the southern California desert sections, and was tired of the exposed sections of the trail.  I was puzzled to understand why he was leaving the trail, as I am really enjoying the desert environs.

I head out tomorrow after Sunday services.  I only have another 56-miles to hike by Wednesday morning, so I still have time to kill.  Therefore, I purchased a pair of hand loppers, and I will do some maintenance on the trail as I hike.  I thought I might as well take care of some of those stupid branches that cause us hikers to stumble or get caught in our eyelids.

Happy Easter everyone!

At the Saufley's in Agua Dulce

I have been staying at Donna Saufley's place (Hiker Heaven) in Agua Dulce for the last day, and I am enjoying my section hike on the PCT.  Section E was wonderful, and filled with poppies, water, and fair weather.  I am tackling Section C next, and I begin hiking at Cajon Pass tomorrow.  I am tackling Section C, because the re-route around Deep Creek is shorter than the huge 60-mile re-route that goes around the Station Fire burn area.  I leave tomorrow, and I will be on the trail for the next 132-miles.  Yipee!  Happy Trails.

Poppies are in Bloom in the Antelope Valley of California

Marin County Hiking At Its Finest!

Map of Mt. Tamalpais State Park and Muir Wood National Monument

Describe a classic hike in Marin County, and one might get several responses: "Take the Miwok Trail in the Marin Headlands" or "Climb the summit of Mt. Tam for panoramic views!"  I offer a classic route emblematic of the Marin County hiking experience that captures its diversity, beauty, and challenge.

With my friend Lynn, I started out on the Dipsea trailhead at Stinson Beach (a part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area), taking a small side road, and crossing Highway 1.  The trail climbed gradually through coastal chaparral, and briefly entered a forest glade, offering cool shade on this warm, sunny day in February.  The trail topped out at an overlook, offering splendid views of Stinson Beach, Bolinas Bay and Bolinas Lagoon.

Freefall with Stinson Beach in the Background

We re-entered forest, and descended shortly to a bridge, which is the intersection of the Dipsea and Steep Ravine trails.  Lynn and I crossed over Webb Creek continuing east on the Dipsea trail, and then climbed a long series of stairs up steep terrain.  As we ascended occasional trail runners passed by us - this trail is famous for an annual footrace!  We continued huffing and sweating up the trail under a canopy of madrone and bay trees, which later transitioned into a young redwood forest.  The scene was serene!

The Dipsea trail left the shade and continued through sunny open space, offering beautiful sweeping views of the Marin Headlands and San Francisco to the south, Oakland and Mt. Diablo to the east, and the Farallon Islands to the West.  Here, Lynn and I took a break to eat a sandwich, bask in the sun, and admire the views.

Lynn Poses Near a "Family Circle" of Redwoods.

We then descended steadily east on the Dipsea Trial through a mixed forest of Douglas fir, tanbark oak, and madrone trees.  We came to an intersection of the trail which alerted us of a bridge closure over Redwood Creek at Muir Woods National Monument.  Instead of taking the official detour, we chose to be adventurous, and continued on the steep drop down the Dipsea.  We easily crossed shallow Redwood Creek near the dismantled bridge, and entered Muir Woods.

Muir Woods influenced me to move out to California... seriously.  When I first saw the old-growth redwoods here in 2002, I was amazed and awed by their size - I had never seen anything like them before.  I was also blown away by the fact that they are located so close to San Francisco.  I continue to be enamored by the redwoods.  Muir Woods is an outdoor cathedral filled with 250-foot tall redwoods, sword fern, sorrels, and banana slugs, which should be visited by everyone.  That said, on this Saturday, it seemed like everyone was visiting Muir Woods!  Through the first mile of our hike, it was hard to escape the crowds wanting to visit this place, but after crossing the fourth bridge, near the Alice Eastwood Trail, our journey was less congested and much quieter.

Our journey continued up the Bootjack Trail, which follows narrow ravine of Redwood Creek.  Several times I was drawn to photograph quaint, beautiful falls and mushrooms along the trail.  We climbed steeply out of the dark canopy of redwoods, and re-entered a forest dominated by mixture of young redwoods tanbark oak, and bay trees.  Along the way, we passed a few hearty tourists, who had hiked more than 2-miles form the Muir Woods parking area - props to them for sucking the marrow from the bone of life!

Falls on Redwood Creek

Lynn and I left the Bootjack Trail, and reached the Pantoll Ranger Station after a short .4-mile hike on the Alpine Trail.  At the busy campground, we sat down for a rest, which included a second lunch, and refilling the water bottles.  I admired the number of outside cycling, hiking, or just frolicking in the outdoors - this is how life should be!

We continued our journey on the Steep Ravine Trail, which follows the aforementioned Webb Creek back to the Dipsea Trail.  True to its name, the trail is indeed steep in many areas.  At one point along the way, Lynn and I had to climb down a 10-foot ladder!  Nonetheless, it was a beautiful descent through a deeply carved ravine, lined with thickets of sword fern and the occasional forget-me-not flowers.  At one point along the way, I had to stop and admire what appeared to be a rare trillium.  We also ran into several hikers going the opposite way, scrambling back to the Pantoll Ranger Station before the sun set.

We reached the Dipsea Trail again, closing our scenic loop hike.  We ascended familiar trail, but were treated to a different scene, as the sun was starting to set.  The coastal mountains of California now had deeper colors and more depth in these golden hours - my camera was very happy to be out of the harsh mid-day light.

Lynn and I scrambled down to Stinson Beach just in time to catch a picturesque California sunset.  Kids were still playing on the beach, and couples were basking in the final rays of sunlight on what had to be one of the most beautiful days in February ever!  I thought about the wonderful diversity I had just experienced: beach, forests, ridges with panoramic views,  redwoods, and deep ravines.  Can I experience Marin County more fully?

Sunset at Stinson Beach

Urban Backpacking Trip to Hawk Camp

It's nice to have a car to go places for hiking and backpacking.  Ever since I got rid of my truck four years ago, I am not traveling as much to backpack those special destinations.  I now rely on friends to drive, public transportation, and my own two feet (yes, my own two feet!) to get around.

Sunset Picture of the Marin Headlands from Bobcat Trail

One of the joys I have discovered about being in San Francisco is that one can simply walk out the front door, and go on an overnight backpacking trip without the car.  Recently, I took a trip to Hawk Camp, which is located in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area.  The beauty of walking from the front door to the campsite is that the city itself becomes the hiking landscape.  Who says that mountains, trees, and rivers have to be the dominant features?  Hiking through the city is seeing the culture at work, the citizenry at play, and becoming more familiar with the urban geography and its unique features.

I hope the video I made captures some of the nuances of urban distance hiking, and the reality that our wild spaces are closer than we think.  Bear in mind here that those coyote yelps and owl hoots are just a few miles from San Francisco!  This is cool.

Pictures From Sky Camp

Back in July of 2010, my hard drive crashed on my computer, and I lost a lot of information.  What an idiot I was for never backing up information (lesson learned!).  I had some pictures on an external hard drive that survived, and they are my only photos remaining from the 2007-2010 era of my life.

I dug out a few pictures of a sunset and sunrise at Sky Camp at Point Reyes National Seashore in California.  I love the place, and I have hiked and backpacked there whenever the opportunity arises.  Anyway, I thought I'd share some pictures from a trip in 2007.   It was the first time I had ever camped at Sky Camp, and I was floored by the views.  Enjoy the pics!

Sunset and Waxing Moon with View Out to Pacific Ocean

Sunrise on Dead Tree with Pacific in Background

Sil-Tarp Sunrise at Sky Camp

ALDHA - West is this Weekend

The 15th Annual gathering of ALDHA-West is this weekend (September 24-26) at Camp Morning Star in Angelus Oaks, California.  Apparently, this is the first time that ALDHA-West will be gathering in southern California.  I have read through the grapevine (Facebook) that there are a lot of hiker trash and some trail angels (including the Andersons) that will be there this weekend. 

One of these days, I will make it there, but I get a feeling I will only make after I have fully completed the PCT, and my Triple Crown.  I am just 38-miles shy!  Nonetheless, I keep hearing great things about the event, and I should make it a priority to head there once a year.  That said, I already have ADZPCTKO and PCT Days in Cascade Locks on list for the year, and I just cannot make all the trail events.  Where are my priorities?

Anyway, for your viewing pleasure, here's a video of Nimblewill Nomad getting his Triple Crown Award back in 2008.  Enjoy!

Trail Maintenance: Report from the PCT - Part II

Freefall maintaining trail in Section O

The “O” in Section O means “OPEN!” After working two more hitches with members of the Northwest Service Academy on a three mile section of the Pacific Crest Trail from Peavine Creek to Red Mountain, and after hiking from Interstate 5 (Castella) back to Burney Falls State Park with a pair of hand clippers, I can with certainty say that Section O has never been in better shape - seriously.  That said, there are still brushy sections on the trail (Red Mountain to the PCT crossing at Grizzly Peak Road), and blowdowns between Mushroom Rock and Alder Creek Trail.  However, one Forest Service employee mentioned that he would be clearing the rest of the blowdowns soon, so there’s reason to be ever more optimistic on trail conditions through the section.

My volunteer service on the PCT is over for the meantime, but I sure wish that I could stay out here.  Seriously, I have thoroughly enjoyed sleeping out in a tent every night, getting my hands (and the rest of me!) dirty every day, hanging out and eating supper with the trail crew in the evenings, and hiking the trail in my off time.  I also got to make a big contribution to a trail that I so dearly love and enjoy, and I leave here knowing that users of the PCT will have a more enjoyable experience.

As I mentioned earlier, I got to hike Section O during one of my breaks, and the hike was so different than my 2003 thru-hike experience.  In 2003, I was suffering from an in-grown toenail, the heat was terrible, and the “O” in Section O stood for “Overgrown.” I remember manzanita, deer brush, vine maple, and tree branches growing in either side of the trail, and interlaced, which made the hiking a frustrating adventure.  Now, the corridor through Section O is very agreeable.

Trail Maintainer John Lyons

Another huge reason why the trail is in good shape is due to the Lyons' Pride, a trail crew headed up by John Lyons, who is also a backcountry horseman.  He has led a crew in May, June, and July, clearing brush and cutting trail near Ah-Di-Na Campground, Centipede Gulch to Butcherknife Creek, and from Deer Creek to Grizzly Peak.

When I ran into his crew, there were about 15-volunteers there, and among those volunteers was Warner Springs Monty. Monty was hiking the trail, but got off because his foot was giving him problems.  Instead of heading back home, he decided to help the Lyon’s Pride with cooking duties, since he is after all the stellar head chef for ADZPCTKO.

Monty was sure surprised to see me hike into the basecamp.  He introduced me to everyone who was doing trail crew, and I was kindly offered a soda to drink.  I introduced myself as a trail maintainer to the crew, and I told them about the section that I was maintaining.  I was offered supper, and I enjoyed some incredible barbeque chicken, salad, macaroni salad, and potatoes.  I rested at that campsite for about two hours, said my goodbyes, and I moved on to the summit of Grizzly Peak.

Vandalized fire tower on top of Grizzly Peak

One of my memorable experiences from my 2003 hike was camping out on top of Grizzly Peak, so I went for a repeat performance.  Again, I had wonderful sweeping views of Section O as I viewed Mushroom Rock to the east-northeast, Bald Mountain and Red Mountain to the East, 14,000-foot Mount Shasta to the northwest, and Castle Crags to the West.  The view was breathtaking.

One disappointment I experienced was the seeing the vandalism of Grizzly Peak fire tower, which was built in 1953.  In 2003, the windows were still in place, but now the glass is broken and scattered all over the top.  The bedspring that was in the tower in 2003, now sits near a newer, but ugly solar-powered weather station.  The peak is a mess, and I hope someone from the Forest Service or a volunteer group can get up there and clean it up.  Nonetheless, I found a spot for camping, and I enjoyed another stunning, memorable sunset and sunrise on the peak.

Chris Pyper of the Northwest Service Academy

There's a ton of work to do out on the trail, and each year, following winter's storms, the trail is littered with blow downs, the tread is eroded, or the brush creeps in yet another foot.  It's a never ending process.  Props to all those trail maintainers out there who give their time and talents to keep the PCT open for hikers and equestrians.  It's awesome!  Finally, I want to give a shout out to Northwest Service Academy's PCT II crew: Kate, Vyper, Shaughn, Sam, Max, and Libby.  Thank you for a memorable July 2010, and thanks for choosing to work on the PCT. Also, thanks to the PCTA's staff (Technical Advisor, Greg Baxter; Regional Representative, Ian Nelson; and Assistant Regional Representative, Val Sokolowski) for your guidance with all trail projects.  You are making a difference!

Desert Protection Act of 2010

Senator Diane Feinstein has introduced the Desert Protection Act of 2010, which will set aside 90,000 acres of wilderness and establish two new national monuments that would encompass more than a million acres (a good image of the proposed national monuments is here). This sweeping legislation would also help protect wildlife corridor and provide a larger buffer zone for the Pacific Crest Trail in southern California.

After an initial reading, I am excited by this legislation, since it is setting aside large portions of land for zero development. However, it looks like there are provisions for easing the permit process for wind and solar developers, but it looks like their access to wild, lands is off-limits. As California seeks to develop renewable energy (which I think is great!), this legislation will establish parameters, which we need. Unplanned, unfettered projects need to work within guidelines. Hike a National Scenic Trail, and one will notice places where unplanned development has spoiled wild lands for everyone (i.e. Sugar Top in North Carolina, which is painfully visible on the Appalachian Trail, and a lot of the Front Range along the Continental Divide Trail in Colorado). The proposed Sand to Snow National Monument in the San Gorgonio Mountains will provide a greater buffer from development for the Pacific Crest Trail.

I look forward to hearing and reading more about this bill. I am sure that it will be argued (as it has already on the blogoshphere), but I think this congress and administration will pass it. I will keep my fingers crossed.